Troubleshooting shifter operation for 2009-2015 Cadillac CTS-V

This is a complicated shifter with multiple possible problems-

Refer to the exploded view diagram of the shifter assembly above for reference #s. The problem is usually NOT related to the shifter itself (#12) but rather the parts below it. The first symptom of a problem is usually trouble entering reverse, which could be caused by a few things:

1. Is key on? Reverse function can only be evaluated with key on engine running; TR6060 uses a reverse lockout solenoid that is only activated when the key is on. The reduced leverage of an aftermarket shifter will make it very difficult to engage with key off.

2. Is bushing cup present? Make sure the black bushing cup at bottom of shift lever is present and healthy. Simply put shifter into a gear and study knob motion. If there is a lot of free play at knob even in gear, bushing may be missing or worn.

3. For Core Shifter kits built BEFORE May 2020 - remove console trim and floor plate. Remove the four hex bolts holding the shifter housing coverplate. Lift the coverplate slightly and remove the INNER coil spring from the LEFT side only. The outer spring must remain. Replace coverplate and all other parts removed and test again. If that does not work, contact us for softer bias springs.

4. Is lever motion getting blocked? Confirm there are no blockages around shifter stick in console/boot area etc. Remove all adjacent trim and and try again.

5. Reset shift rail alignment:

At rear of shifter box (#10) is black plastic extension with a small hole on top; this extension is attached by a phillips-head screw on each side. These screws are known to loosen; if extension has been loose for some time, the bushings that support the inner rail may be damaged and entire box may need to be replaced or rebuilt.
Assuming this is all healthy, identify or obtain neutral lock pin. This part is provided with stock shifter; look for bent steel pin at front of shifter housing down inside rubber cover, partially inserted downward into a black plastic boss. Otherwise, use a 5/32" straight punch or drill bit - or worst case get a M4 screw at least 25mm in length. Get a Sharpie marker and make a mark ~20mm up from bottom of pin for depth reference.
Place shifter in neutral. In front of shifter box (#10), loosen the bolt (#6) a few turns until the clamp (#5) is loose. Engage neutral lock pin; drop pin into small hole on top of black plastic extension at rear of shifter box. Insert pin until it is fully engaged (~20mm deep); do not force pin, it should all but fall in place if everything is aligned. If not, wiggle shifter at top slightly side-to-side and front-to-back to help align the parts. Once locked, tighten clamp bolt (#6) to 30 Nm (22 ft-lb), remove pin and test shifter operation again.

6. Look underneath for broken parts. Raise vehicle and support securely; have someone in car trying to engage reverse while you study movement of shifter frame from underneath – look for excessive movement of shifter box and check for broken frame legs or loose bushings where it attaches to trans. If anything is loose/broken/moving excessively, repair or replace those parts.

7. Remove lockout assembly from upper left side of tailhousing and test again. If that solves the problem, solenoid may be bad or have faulty wiring - check connector voltage with key on to rule out wiring before replacing solenoid.