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Swap bases

Links to bases are at bottom; please read entire page first!

Background: There are two ways to approach a swap - you can either spend $$$ on an aftermarket trans with offset shifter that fits your console perfectly (see Hurst Driveline Conversions or Silver Sport) but probably doesn't have a short throw - or you can buy a used OE trans and with some effort (and maybe a new console) get a better result at a lower cost. We offer direct-fit swap bases for most RWD 5 & 6 speeds and unlike the custom guys, we offer multiple fulcrum heights so you can actually get a short throw with any stick length - at a reasonable price. This direct-fit (straight stub) approach is simple and works great, but often requires floor and console mods.


Shifter bases for custom (non-OE) conversions:

  • A mix of Hurst & custom components, designed & assembled in-house by Core Shifters
  • NOT for OEM replacement in original applications - see the complete kits
  • Hurst shifter stick required (sold separately). Other brands do not fit properly;  homemade sticks lack material integrity. Never use a welded, bent, or modified stick as this creates a weak spot which can lead to catastrophic failure. Stick mount has 3/8"-24 threaded holes spaced 7/8" apart on center; sticks that use 8mm mounting bolts (most OE, "non-TKO" Lokar, others) will NOT work. The stick mount also has mating serrations for a Hurst stick on one face; only Hurst sticks have these mating serrations. Lokar TKO sticks have 3/8" holes and can be mounted but only to the smooth side of the stub and will need to be glued in place to avoid loosening...
  • Stick must be directly mounted onto stub; these bases are not appropriate for use in offset or remote assemblies. If you need a remote linkage, you probably chose the wrong transmission. These types of shifters are best left to the OEMs as doing it right (and safely) is very expensive and requires a transmission designed for this purpose. It is cheaper, safer, and easier to choose a different transmission that better suits your needs directly, or find an OE configuration that fits (e.g. 2004-2006 GTO, 2005+ Mustang, 2009+ Challenger, 2010+ Camaro)
  • Proper leverage requires matching stick length with base fulcrum height. No base by itself is "short throw". The stick and stub together form a lever; if you want that lever to have a short throw, buy parts that work together. Excess leverage can also lead to component failure
  • Choose the stick and base together after the swap is done, when you can sit in the vehicle - these parts are not needed until that point and should not be purchased until then; DO NOT buy a base until you can also determine the stick! If you can't do that yet, come back when you can
  • Focus on choosing a stick and base that together achieve your desired knob location in space. Do not focus on the stick alone. Consider the height and shape of the overall assembly

How to choose the right parts for your custom swap:

  • Before you buy a transmission, figure out which model suits your needs. If you already bought one - it may require major changes or you may be better off with a different one. Transmissions are not universal - they come in dozens of configurations per OE specs; probably only one or two of them work for you. Sit in the vehicle and study the situation; determine which model puts the shifter base where you need it - see this chart. Also check out our transmission info page. Don't expect a shifter to cure a bad transmission choice
    • Install engine block first, to define bellhousing location
    • Make sure bellhousing is compatible with your engine, flywheel, & clutch
    • Consider floor & console openings, seat placement, dashboard, etc.
    • Minimize rear offset (horizontal distance from base to knob) where possible
    • Expect to cut a hole in floor large enough to install shifter base from interior
    • Prepare to reconfigure. Transmission tailhousing may need to be swapped to put shifter at better position; this may involve swapping or modding internal parts too
    • Plan the driveshaft connection. Some models do not use slip yokes but can be adapted; HOWEVER if yoke to driveshaft angle is > 4 deg, a CV joint is needed
  • Install new transmission, steering wheel, seat, & dash BEFORE you buy shifter parts
    • Don't rush into this. Wait until you can accurately analyze the situation. You can't install the shifter until everything else is in place anyway so why risk buying the wrong parts?
    • No matter what shifter you buy, hole in floor must be at least size of base flange
  • Define desired knob location in space (neutral position):
    • Sit in vehicle, in driving position, with all interior trim (dash, console, etc) in place, seat and steering wheel adjusted for driver
    • Choose a comfortable knob position. In most cases, this should be in the plane of the steering wheel near same height as bottom of steering wheel (+/- per preference)
    • Measure height from base flange to desired knob location = overall height
    • Measure side & rear offsets from receptacle bore (in trans) to desired knob location
  • Study the Hurst stick charts and/or the Hurst stick page for shapes that meet your needs
    • Subtract 3-6” from overall height to get estimated stick height
    • Choose a stick and see what fulcrum heights are compatible with it (see base listing)
    • Check overall height (see chart in base listing: stick height + mount height = overall height)
    • Make sure the stick shape works with your dash, seats, console, etc
  • Confirm chosen combination achieves desired knob location and that fulcrum height works with stick length selected
    • WARNING: if stick length is longer than recommended, the excess leverage could lead to failure of the stick or stub during use!
    • Consider various stick & stub combinations to optimize
    • Some fulcrum options have an angled stick mount that will tilt stick to left. For long sticks this will strongly offset knob to left (can be 5-6"+) which will be a problem in narrow bodies (street rods, early trucks). HOWEVER we have the ability to slightly bend sticks to correct for this in tight situations and can do so for free upon request w/ stick purchase
    • Sometimes an extension bracket can be used to offset and rotate the stick to get a better result. Fabricate out of 5/16" thick mild steel, maintain a minimum neck width of 1", and do not exceed ~3" of offset in any direction. Mate this bracket to smooth faces on stick and stub with silicone RTV and 3/8" mounting bolts into threaded holes
    • Some fulcrum options use a short OE dust boot that exposes stick mount which helps in tight situations like with an extension bracket or low floor
  • IF you're not sure about all of this, email us your transmission model, vehicle model, and desired knob location (overall height and rear offset as shown) and we will offer suggestions - but try to follow the process above first. Your interior must be completely finished before we can discuss shifter parts...


PLEASE NOTE: ALL swap bases are built to order and take ~ ONE WEEK to ship!

Click on transmission type & look for your exact model (donor vehicle):

    • AR5 (Chevy Colorado)
    • M5OD (Ford trucks)

Custom swap bases for other transmission models also available (Hurst stick required) - email to request