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Service Bulletins

This section is to help in troubleshooting and emphasize best practices. It applies to the modern internal rail trans applications our products support; not for cable or external linkage shifters. Always refer to installation instructions for application-specific info.

General:

(click to expand)
  • Applies to: Any shifter using a bolt-on stick (any brand)
    • Stick bolts should always torqued to spec at installation, and may require re-torque after 500-1000 miles. Always use lockwashers in correct size and good condition. Proper bolt torque depends on bolt size: 3/8" bolts (most Hurst) = 35 ft-lbs; 8mm bolts (most OE & "non-Hurst") = 15 ft-lbs
  • Applies to: Any Hurst or Core shifter with a bolt-on stick but particularly stick # 7201
    • Inspect engagement of mating serrations between stick and stub. Look for gaps or misalignment; remove stick for further study. Look for burrs in serration grooves, particularly near mount holes. Grind off any burrs present with a rotary (Dremel) tool etc. Recheck fit and continue until serrations mate cleanly. Reinstall and torque stick bolts to spec
  • Applies to: Situations where Hurst stick & stub serrations are on opposite faces
    • Hurst stick & stub serrations should mate and engage to lock their connection where possible. If these serrations are on opposite faces and the stub is straight, you can probably disassemble the base and flip the stub - but beware of the springs and small parts inside. If you can't use the serrations, mate the smooth faces of the stick and stub; avoid mating serrations to smooth surfaces wherever possible; in cases where this must occur, use silicone RTV to fill the serration grooves and enhance the connection. We also recommend using silicone RTV for mating smooth faces, to strengthen the connection
  • Applies to: Mating a "non-Hurst" stick to a Hurst stub
    • We recommend using Hurst sticks with Hurst stubs - nothing else has all of the features for proper mounting, and may even lack material strength for safe operation. But if you decide to use a "non-Hurst" stick: Bolt sizing is often a problem because most "non-Hurst" sticks have 8mm bolt holes, while most Hurst stubs have 3/8"-24 threaded mount holes. In this case, you will have to either drill out the stick (usually case-hardened, bad idea) or use long 8mm bolts that extend through stub so that 8mm nuts can be used from back side to clamp parts together. Use the smooth face of the stub for mating to the stick (i.e. smooth-to-smooth). Avoid mating serrations to smooth surfaces wherever possible; in cases where this must occur, use silicone RTV to fill the serration grooves and enhance the connection. We also recommend using silicone RTV for mating smooth faces, to strengthen the connection
  • Applies to: Mating a Hurst stick to an OE or "non-Hurst" stub
    • Most OE & "non-Hurst" shifters use 8mm mount bolts however Hurst sticks have 10mm mount holes. Proper installation requires a spacer bushing on each bolt, to fill the balance of the hole and center the stick. We offer special adapter bolts for this situation. Mate the smooth face of the Hurst stick to the stub to maximize contact area, and be sure to torque 8mm bolts to 15 ft-lbs
  • Applies to: Custom installations requiring stick offsets
    • Hurst sticks are made of mild steel that is case hardened - this casing is key to their strength; as such, Hurst sticks should never be modified, cut, or welded as this will compromise the integrity which could lead to failure. In situations where an existing Hurst stick does not quite meet the desired objectives for knob location or console clearance etc, an offset bracket or spacer between the stick and stub is the best way to achieve fitment. We recommend to fabricate out of 5/16" thick mild steel, maintain a minimum neck width of 1", and not exceed ~3" of offset in any direction. With such a bracket, a stick can be offset and/or tilted to achieve the desired shape or knob location - in height and rear offset. Mild lateral (side) offsets are also possible depending on how the parts are assembled and in some cases the bracket could even be slightly bent or twisted to help. Mate this bracket to smooth faces on the stick and stub with silicone RTV and 3/8" mounting bolts into threaded holes. Make sure bracket shape does not cause interference across range of motion, and that it allows the use of a dust boot to cover the shifter mechanism
  • Applies to: Potentially any brand, but Hurst chrome sticks in particular
    • Many times it is difficult to get a good fit around OE rubber floor boots when installing an aftermarket shifter. It is important to always use a dust boot with the shifter base to avoid dirt getting into the transmission; sometimes this requires modifying the OE boot to wrap around it, and/or may require a lower profile dust boot than the one supplied (such as an OE dust boot - see our boot section). In situations where the opening of the floor boot is too large, one of our boot support adapter grommets meant normally for console boots can also help here. In custom situations, a shifter base with a taller stick mount can be helpful if it allows the stick to be attached after the OE floor boot is in place. When it comes to the console boot, if the fit is close but only slightly loose, you can invert the boot to add a cable tie underneath to grip; for larger gaps, one of our boot support grommets usually does the trick
  • Applies to: all Viper, 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 4 cyl, custom swaps
    • For most modern internal rail trans, shifter base removal is quite straight forward, maybe requiring a wobble extension or universal flex joint etc. Always remove all neighboring trim and try a variety of tool combinations and drive sizes before going extreme. In some cases however, by design the floor pan completely obstructs access to some or all base bolts, particularly front bolts, making it very difficult to remove shifter base with trans in vehicle. In some cases (like the Chevy SSR truck) you can work underneath the vehicle with a flex-end ratchet wrench to loosen the obstructed bolts. In other case, like the Viper and Tacoma 4x4 4cyl, it is best to just drill 3/4" dia holes through the floor pan directly above the obstructed bolts. This should only be done with a Unibit-type stepped bit as it is very unsafe to use a normal drill bit in something thin like sheetmetal. Of course make sure this won't damage neighboring wiring or components, and clean the area before proceeding. Once complete, snap in plugs (we carry these in 3/4" dia) or even duct tape etc can be used to close the holes.
  • Applies to: Any shifter, any brand
    • Blockage. Remove all boots and console trim; search for anything that could block shifter motion in all gears. Check function with all boots removed. If still unresolved, remove shifter base and compare depth of stub below flange to the stock unit - if depth does not match exactly, a different base may be required
  • Applies to: Any shifter, any brand
    • If there is a significant amount of play, the lower isolator bushing cup may be missing or worn. Remove and inspect. We offer replacement parts
  • Applies to: Stock shifters, Jeep & Toyota (Aisin) only
    • Pivot seat in housing is known to disintegrate over time. Remove lever and inspect. We offer replacement parts but recommend upgrading to a Core Shifter kit for enhanced performance and durability
  • Applies to: old Hurst diecast Comp Plus shifters for GM T5
    • Stub depth is known to be ~1/16" lower than intended, creating a blockage with the receptacle cup. Install our repair shim between the housing and baseplate to elevate stub. Additional clearancing of housing at stub exit may also be helpful
  • Applies to: old Hurst diecast Comp Plus shifters with steel baseplate including 4th gen Camaro factory Hurst base
    • Small "ears" at bottom of pivot area in diecast housing are known to break off under high vertical load - particularly if shifter base is on transmission during removal/installation of trans and stub contacts floor pan. Shifter will not operate properly without these ears. We have a few replacement housings, but it is best to upgrade to the more robust Billet Plus design as offered in our Core Shifters kits - and of course never leave a shifter base in place during removal or installation of a transmission
  • Applies to: old Hurst diecast Comp Plus shifters for Mustang including factory Hurst SVO & Saleen bases
    • Diecast housing is known to wear in stub pivot area, degrading pivot action and eventually causing engagement problems. Service parts are not available; upgrade to the more robust Billet Plus design
  • Applies to: 1996-2001 Mustang V8 only (T45), any brand
    • T45 shifter stub depth is ~0.1" shallower than T5; when you use a T5 shifter base on a T45 trans, the excess stub depth causes blockage and interference. To use a T5 shifter on a T45 trans you must use a spacer plate. Of course the opposite is also true - never use a T45 base on a T5 trans as the stub is too shallow
  • Applies to: All T56 & TR6060 trans - trouble entering reverse
    • Reverse function can only be evaluated with vehicle on and running. T56 & TR6060 use a reverse lockout solenoid that is only activated when the key is on. The reduced leverage of an aftermarket shifter will make it very difficult to engage with key off. If you have difficulty even with key on, confirm there are no blockages around shifter stick etc. In some cases, detent shims and/or a softer reverse lockout spring is helpful
  • Applies to: 1997-2019 Corvette - trouble entering reverse
    • Refer to lockout information above. Also be sure to check shifter linkage alignment by following this procedure
  • Applies to: Shifters with stops, any brand
    • Improperly set stop bolts can cause blockage; we recommend removing shifter stop bolts altogether as they are not worth the risk. Tremec actually states in their policies that they void warranty claims when a shifter with stops is present. If you intend to retain them: Shifter stops must be carefully set after shifter base bolts and stick bolts are torqued. The stop bolts should barely touch the stub when loaded and ideally not touch when unloaded - check this in every gear. If the shifter base is ever removed, the stops must be re-set upon installation every time - whether on the same trans or a different one. Failure to follow this procedure could cause transmission damage. Loctite thread locker along stop bolt thread is strongly recommended because stop bolts can vibrate inward, slowly reducing engagement until the transmission is damaged. Stop bolt lock nuts must be torqued to spec - recheck bolt position after torque. And check the setting periodically or if ever in doubt. It's not worth all this; with or without stops, abusive operation will cause damage. Stops do not protect against damage caused by missing a gear mid-stroke - their value is quite dubious and overstated. The benefits of stops on modern internal rail trans are very limited and not worth the risk. Tremec's own literature states "All TREMEC transmissions have internal stops and can not be over shifted" - and this applies to pretty much all internal rail trans regardless of manufacturer...

Application-specific:

  • Model: 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma V6 w/ RA60 6 speed - 4x4 only
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Dec 2014
      • Problem: Shifter stick # 4106 contacts front edge of console in some gears, causing slight interference and rattle. Situation only occurs in V6 4x4 models
        • Solution: Contact Core Shifters for a retrofit bracket that tilts and offsets stick rearward to increase clearance and relocate knob closer to OE location
  • Model: Ford Falcon FG (Australian)
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Aug 2014
      • Problem: Shifter stick # 7991 sits too far forward in console opening
        • Solution: Contact Core Shifters to exchange for stick #7201 on a custom bracket that offsets stick rearward to center of console opening for improved appearance and fit
  • Model: 1994-2008 Dodge Ram trucks (NV3500, NV4500, NV5600, Getrag 238)
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Mar 2016
      • Problem: Short knob height. Tallest available Hurst chrome stick was ~3" shorter than OE
        • Solution: As a stop-gap, we recommend a 3" knob extension as available for Jeep Wrangler YJ (3/8"-16 thread) from RockNob. A 4" longer Hurst stick is now available for purchase here
  • Model: GM & Dodge HD trucks w/ NV4500 5 speed
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Jul 2015
      • Problem: Premature stub wear at lower connection
        • Solution: Contact Core Shifters to obtain a new heat-treated stub
  • Model: 2001-2007 GM HD trucks w/ NV4500 5 speed
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Jul 2015
      • Problem: Stub engagement is too high. The 2001+ GM NV4500 lid was machined with a flange height 1/4" higher than earlier models (see info page)
        • Solution: Contact Core Shifters to obtain a shorter housing riser that increases engagement
  • Model: 2004-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon trucks w/ AR5 5 speed
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before Mar 2014
      • Problem: Knob is too close to steering wheel due to tall stub with angled stick mount
        • Solution: Contact Core Shifters to exchange shifter base for a slightly shorter model with straight stub
  • Model: 1989-1996 Corvette (C4)
    • Applies to: Core Shifter kits shipped before June 2017
      • Problem: Circlips for central 10mm pivot shaft are too large (9mm) and loose in groove (8mm)
        • Solution: Reuse stock clips or contact Core Shifters for smaller 8mm clips
  • Model: 2011-2014 Mustang w/ MT82 6 speed
    • Applies to: Any shifter - stock or aftermarket
      • Problem: Shifter jams under full power 1-2 shifts due to flex in driveline bushings
        • Solution: Replace the stock rear shifter frame rubber bushing with a stiffer urethane version such as the one from Hurst. We also strongly recommend the Whiteline transmission mount insert # KDT928 - not sold by us but available from most retailers (Summit, Jegs, etc)
  • Model: 1988-2007 Ford F150 & 1988-2011 Ranger trucks w/ M5OD trans
    • Applies to: Hurst Billet Plus shifters for M5OD
      • Problem: Oil leaks are observed between base flange and shifter housing. Some wrongly blame this on mythical "venting" but it is simply a seal failure
        • Solution: The Billet Plus platform is not a good fit to this application; the complex design uses a flat rubber seal that is easily torn during installation. We have some replacement seals on hand - email us; or consider upgrading to our exclusive new M5OD shifter base that has a simple solid housing incorporating B&M architecture with no seals to fail